Friday, September 24, 2010

The Health Police

I'm currently contemplating an apple a little smaller than my head. This, along with an even larger pear, is Mr. Pan's Chuseok gift to me. Koreans value health above all else, and their gift baskets contain fruits, nuts, and sometimes ginseng. Bobby and I have been marveling at the W70,000 gift boxes of nuts we have been finding at the grocery store. These gargantuan fruits probably came in a box that cost at least W20,000. Ginseng is the most expensive health treat, running around W100,000 for a gift box.

These massive fruits are items I would sometimes find at the Harris Teeter, and shun because I figure they are a product of hormones and genetic engineering. I wonder how these apples grew. Nonetheless, they are incredibly tasty, and I made a valiant attempt to finish one this morning (I got halfway through).  Something this massive was meant to be shared.  Sadly, Bobby doesn't like apples. Koreans are always accosting him for his obviously unhealthy eating habits. That's another thing about Koreans—they consider it their duty to let you know when you are doing something unhealthy. Mr. Pan tells me that when he and his wife go to a family dinner, his family tells her not to eat. Mr. Pan's wife is far from obese—I'd actually put her on the high side of normal weight. Sometimes I wonder if Koreans really are “naturally thin” or if what I'm witnessing is institutionalized anorexia and bulimia. Somehow, drinking soju to the point of extreme inebriation is okay, as is weaving a scooter in and out of traffic with no helmet, but that donut will kill you.

I learned last week that the #1 item procured illegally for Koreans from our PX is vitamins. That's right, they bypass the duty free European chocolates and perfumes and the liquor shelf and go straight for the multivitamins. Such things exist over here, but they are massively expensive, just like the fruit. I guess we're witnessing Adam Smith in action here: Koreans value vitamins, thus they have a lot of monetary value here. The country is only a generation or two from widespread extreme, starvation-inducing poverty, so I guess I understand.

I enjoy healthy food, and I like to eat here. I like knowing that there's probably not high fructose corn syrup in anything I consume, and that I am not facing down a small mountain of french fries with every plate I purchase. (Over here, you can buy fries separately at American restaurants, but you will usually share an order). I like knowing that my food is made from actual ingredients instead of things doctored to taste like actual ingredients. I am glad to find that I was right in defending my love of white rice all these years. A billion Asians can't be wrong—white rice will not make anyone fat.

Nonetheless, the relentless obsession with health and resulting evangelism I experience here annoys me. I enjoy donuts, damnit, and don't take kindly to being judged all the time. What's a holiday without carbohydrates? Not that America has it right. We have a similar dieting obsession, but with an expectation to find a shortcut that leads us to gobble absurdities like low fat cheesecake. Americans tend to be too fat or too thin, but rarely in between and always hating ourselves. I want to find a place where people eat unhealthy foods in moderation and delight in doing so. I think I would like to try Europe next.
How do you like them apples? They come in little skirts with ribbons around them.

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Happy Chuseok

Aside from Korean New Year, this is my first big cultural holiday. Chuseok is a major holiday over here. It started as the harvest festival, when Koreans gave thanks for a bountiful harvest. Nowadays far more people live in cities than on farms, but many of the rituals are the same. Everyone goes to visit their families, dress in traditional costumes, eat huge meals, and tend to the graves of their ancestors. Americans here call it "Korean thanksgiving"

Chuseok to foreigners is a day off work (more if you don't work for the U.S. Government), lots and lots of traffic, and avoiding major grocery stores for a week. We didn't follow that last little bit of advice and ended up at a crazily crowded Home Plus with an inflated grocery bill. I guess stores over here jack up their prices for the holidays as well.

It's way too wet to go anywhere today, but as the grave tending starts about a week in advance, I did see some neat stuff. I found a variety of foods on graves, from glasses of makkoli to opened yogurt cups. I imagine the mountain wildlife loves Chuseok. New graves have also materialized in what I thought were patches of wildlife.

We're celebrating our day off by eating and watching House. The big plan was to make a Korean American feast, but I wasn't really in the mood for Korean when I started cooking, though I did add a buchingae (pancake).

Tomorrow, I start conducting interviews for my job opening. I have had more interviews than I can count, but I have always been on the other side of the desk. I'm pretty nervous about it. I have always viewed a job interview as a special form of torture, and now I'm the inquisitor. I know one thing—I won't be judging anyone by his or her clothing. I have always found it particularly asinine that someone interviewing for a $10 an hour shelving job has to shell out $100 bucks for a suit that they will never again wear to work.

Soup, buchingae, yogurt salad, and a chicken

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Hey, Ho, the Wind and the Rain

I was excited that we managed to sign up for the best CAC trip I have seen so far. This was a day trip to Geoje and Oedo islands, two beautiful islands on the south end of Korea. When we left at 6:45 am, it was overcast and a little threatening, but the bottom didn't drop out until we arrived at our destination 3 hours later. I remember that I mentioned monsoon season starting in July. Well, these past couple of weeks, we have seen some serious weather worthy of the moniker. There have been torrential rains, high winds, and lots of flooding. Nonetheless, the weather was lovely for some mandatory staff fun on Friday, so I was hopeful about Saturday. It was not to be! (Of course, the whole time I was thinking, “why couldn't it have rained out the mandatory fun?” Which was, I begrudgingly admit, better than working.)

So we did manage to go to the POW camp, but the rest of the trip was cancelled. Oh well. As many experienced travelers will tell you, you win some, you lose some.

The POW camp was pretty cool. Geoje Island was where UN forces kept North Korean prisoners. It was a huge camp, with thousands of prisoners. The designers made an effort to bring the camp's history alive for us, complete with life sized dioramas with moving pieces, special effects, and video footage. There were a few sentences in bad English for tourists, though I was sorry (like I am at least 5 times a day) that I don't understand Korean better. This was no whitewashed kid-friendly version of history, either. There were bloody prisoners and naked prisoners. (People brought their kids. I'm certainly not implying that kids shouldn't see history as it really happened.) There was an outdoor area with a reconstructed kitchen, lots of tanks, guns, and helicopters, and the ruins of an American PX and chapel.  Bobby was especially fond of the machines and explored them all while I stood there and complained.    We were soaked to the skin, but we did get a nice Korean lunch afterwards.

I like the statue.  I'm sure it means something.
POW latrines

I really like how this was designed.  It was a huge camp.

An uprising of communist sympathizers.

Bobby took lots of pictures of the equipment.

Our PX doesn't look like this one.

Me in the kitchen, very wet.

Yeah, it rained pretty hard.



Saturday, September 4, 2010

Happy Anniversary to Us



Our anniversary once again falls on labor day weekend, so we decided to take a day trip. Busan is my favorite city in Korea and it happens to have a much-lauded aquarium, so we decided to head back there. I feel like our anniversary actually started on Friday, since I wanted a night off from cooking so we went to a new Japanese restaurant by Camp Walker. It was fantastic! We had great sushi, our own private dining room, and the whole thing set us back 20,000 Won (about 17 dollars). The chef came out to shake our hands after we finished. We didn't understand what he was trying to say to us, but he gave Bobby a card so it was probably something along the lines of, “please tell your American friends about our good food.” And we will!

The next day, we headed to lovely Busan. We went via KTX, which takes a little over an hour. I have had a love-hate relationship with trains over the years (I hate Amtrak), but I love the KTX. It's really fast and always on time.

The aquarium is right on Haeundae Beach, but underground. It has some really neat stuff that we haven't seen before, like unhatched shark eggs and a shark tank with a variety of toothy sharks. There was also an extensive jellyfish collection. Overall, we decided it was probably the second coolest aquarium we've been to, after Atlanta. Not that it wasn't trying. This aquarium, like Atlanta, had a tunnel through the shark tank as well as an additional two story tank with massive rays.

The aquarium took about 2.5 hours, so when we came out we were looking for something else to do. We took a walk on the beach, which has transformed into full summer mode, with lifeguard stands, rentable floaties, and rows and rows of identical beach umbrellas. Sadly, neither of us had swimsuits. Summer comes a little late here, I think, as it didn't start getting really hot until July, and temperatures remain in the mid 90's. Haeundae Beach is still an enclave for westerners, with western style beach bar-and-grills and tons of foreigners wandering around. We got ice cream and no one pushed us to share it. (This happened in Daegu. We each got an ice cream and the server brought us ANOTHER ice cream with two spoons as “service”. Gee, thanks.)

We saw some tour boats coming out of a dock at the end of the beach. We love boats, so we bought a couple of tickets. It turns out the boat was going to this neat rocky island with a lighthouse on it. There were quite a few fishermen on the rock, though I didn't see any boat docks so I'm not sure how they got there. The tour guide explained everything, but in Korean so we had to make up our own stories.

We had dinner at Gecko's again, which is still a great restaurant, not so much for the food but for the patio overlooking the water. I got to see Haeundae after sunset, and it didn't disappoint. The whole beach lights up like Vegas. I still love Busan, and it was a great anniversary.
A fountain by the train station.  


I kid you not! I believe we call this the African penguin

Aquarium car!  See the ray on the dashboard?

The lonely lighthouse

I just thought these were pretty

A quiet part of the beach

Haeundae from the boat