Korea vs. Japan

I have been sadly homebound these past few days, so I don't have much to write about. We had a lovely snow on Monday. I'm still enchanted by falling snowflakes, though I suppose eventually the novelty will wear off.

I remember that I was going to talk about the complicated relationship between Koreans and Japanese, and I guess now is the time. I believe that Japan has conquered parts of Korea more than once, but the most recent incidence is in living memory, and it was brutal. The Japanese not only took over the Korean government, but they put the Koreans through a vigorous reeducation program, teaching Japanese language and cultures in schools. Women were kidnapped and given as slaves to soldiers. Any attempt at protest was violently suppressed. The Japanese even murdered the Korean empress, who had no political power but huge symbolic significance.

Koreans are understandably bitter. This comes out in many ways: though I learned from one source that Cheondok Palace was in fact burned by servants, every sign in the palace laments the pieces that were burned by the Japanese (except one, which admits that it could have been servants). Korean culture and Japanese culture are understandably similar, but try and call a Korean wrestler a sumo wrestler and you'll be sorry. (The only difference I have detected is the lack of a topknot on Korean wrestlers). Many places serve sushi but call it mujanwi. Korean norebangs—singing rooms-- are everywhere but Koreans are quick to tell you that they are not karaoke bars. The name “Sea of Japan” is an insult to the Koreans, and, as some Korean high schoolers pointed out to me, its proper name is the East Sea.

I don't think this antipathy spreads to Japanese people. I haven't heard any Koreans speak badly of the Japanese, and Koreans are so solicitous of me (I'm from the country that helped divide Korea), I can't imagine they act differently towards the Japanese. There are small vestiges of Japanese culture creeping back into the public sphere, mainly through young people. There's anime and manga, and Koreans like Hello Kitty as much as anyone else. I imagine teenagers are admonished by their grandparents, who remember being reeducated by the Japanese.

As someone from across the world, I see Koreans and Japanese as very similar—both bow, both use chopsticks and eat lots of rice, both are exceedingly polite, technologically savvy, and hardworking. Korean and Japanese children appear to always be in school. They both like cartoons with big eyes, intricately patterned sliding doors, sitting on the floor, and taking off your shoes at the door. To Koreans, Korean and Japanese culture are very different. Japanese are insular, Koreans form tight communities. Japanese are accommodating, Koreans are stubborn. Koreans are bigger drinkers (at least the men are). Perhaps this is like the difference between America and England. I saw everything as just a little bit different, but I wonder if an Asian visiting both countries would say we're practically the same.